Turkish Delights- The Markets of Istanbul

383

Edited December 2024

The markets in Istanbul – oh. my. word.  In addition to the many neighborhood markets selling fruits, vegetables, clothing, antiques and just about every other thing that’s sellable, there are two main extravaganzas (extravaganzi??) that you simply must experience:  The Egyptian Spice Bazaar in the Eminönü district where you can wander about for hours, and the grand-daddy of them all, the Grand Bazaar, where you can wander about for days!

Built in 1664 and known in Turkish as Mısır Çarşısı, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar is where you’ll discover dried figs, dates, apricots, pineapple, strawberries, raisins, mango, apples, and just about any other dried fruit you can imagine.  Bins of walnuts, almonds, peanuts, sesame seeds, macadamia nuts, and hazelnuts fill the many shops.

And spices? Of course!  Rare red Persian saffron. Fresh cinnamon sticks. Cloves. A myriad of oregano. A plethora of pepper: red pepper. Black pepper. White pepper. Himalayan salt. Pink salt. Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme.

You’ll find teas of every type imaginable – rose tea, pomegranate, spice, mint, senna, “love” tea, “energy” tea, and the traditional black çay or super-sweet apple tea which every Turkish shopkeeper and restaurant owner will offer you served in the classic tulip-shaped glass with two sugar cubes.

And I’m not quite sure what it is about the Turks, but they LOVE their candy!  I have never seen so many candy shops – all of them beautiful works of art in and of themselves.  Turkish Delight is the main offering. (Note to my Irish cousins – this stuff is not the nasty stuff Aunt Terry and Aunt Mary brought from Limerick in the purple wrappers!)  

What exactly is Turkish delight, or “lokum”? Made from sugar and cornstarch that’s slow cooked and poured, set and cut into cubes or rolls, this candy can be filled with apricots, pastichios, ginger, orange, coconut and more.  You can buy them fresh or boxed – but as the rotund shopkeeper told me with a sly wink and a grin, “these fresh rolls?  You buy these for your mother.  The boxed ones? They are for your mother-in-law.”

The Grand Bazaar is another epic and worthwhile way to spend a few hours.  Built in 1455, it is one of the oldest and largest covered markets on the planet. Take a deep breath…and enter. Walk into any one of the many gates and just start wandering.  Don’t worry about getting lost; you will, so just relax and meander. 

It’s a maze of small alleyways, blind corners, and hidden gems. Here, you’ll find sneakers, tee shirts, magnets, gorgeous real and fake brilliantly colored Turkish rugs, jewelry, watches – so many watches! – belts, boots, socks, sparkling gold tea sets, sparkling silver tea sets, coasters, a plethora of scarves, and all the requisite touristy things in a covered market that contains over 4000 booths (yes, 4000!!) and 61 streets. And there’s food – but of course there’s food! – freshly squeezed pomegranate, orange, and grapefruit juices, delightfully shaped cookies covered with powdered sugar, delicious smelling kebabs, thick and steaming Turkish coffee, and gorgeous flaky pastries filled with almonds, pistachios, honey, and supreme yumminess.

On a busy day, over 400,000 people will visit the Bazaar. Yes, it’s busy, crowded, and jam-packed, but it’s a cultural experience not to be missed. When you’re ready to leave and if you can’t find your way out, just ask which way back to the gate you entered through (and you’ll probably be offered tea!)

On my way home from the Galata Tower, I strolled past a busy fish market under the Galata Bridge that spans the Golden Horn, connecting Karaköy to Eminönü. Stalls of squirming and flopping silver and iridescent fish of all shapes and sizes were doused with buckets of fresh water flung by rubber-booted men, who shouted, smoked and laughed with each other as shoppers decided on their choice for dinner later that day.

While roaming around Sultanahmed neighborhood, I bumped into this fresh fruit and vegetable market set up on a hilly side street around the corner from my hostel. Bright cherry-colored beets, shiny royal purple eggplant, gleaming white and yellow onions, fresh greens of all hues, vermilion pomegranates, ripe strawberries, plums, and persimmons were in baskets, crates, and boxes, spilling off the tabletops.

Istanbul is a shopper’s dream—whether you’re looking for a beautiful handmade Turkish rug or a delicious roll of forum, you’ll enjoy the shops, stands, stores, and bazaars throughout the city.

The real voyage of discovery consists not only in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.  ~ Marcel Proust